What is pleasant but unremarkable in the hands of an ordinary maker and from the gimmicky amphora shaped Verddicchio bottle – use it in risotto but keep a glass for yourself – becomes something special in the hands of an expert, here using 50 year old vines, organic viticulture, reduced yields to enhance intensity and extra ageing in Slavonian oak barrels. Purity, depth, complexity, nuttiness, smoke and silk. We went to the tasting for burgundy but were immensely impressed with this. If white burgundy is not your thing, this will be for you. It certainly is for Hugh Johnson – “One of Italy’s 20 best whites….”