Volnay rests between the last of the rich reds, Pommard, and the great white vineyards of Meursault and beyond – perhaps it is this that gives its wines a special character – often called a delicate wine, perhaps it is better described as having a tendency in the hands of a good maker to turn all the tannins and power of the others into satin and silk, without losing richness. We came across this wine, from the brother and sister team that now run the long established family domaine, at a tasting, but found that everyone else had loved it too, so we were too late – it had all gone. But we loved the fact that although it is quite young, and will only get better, it already had that unique Volnay velvet and can be drunk now. So we tracked down somebody else’s delivery and mugged the driver. Here it is – ask no questions.